ABC...

...It's easy as 1,2,3!

With very little notice and a few strings pulled, we managed to get into this 'Best New Restaurant of 2011' (#16 on the 'top 101') hot spot with a four top at 8:00. I figured this would be a good way to start this adventure off right, with the haute-locavore cuisine that this extension of the Jean-Georges empire has to offer. My company for the maiden voyage, consisted of my core group of NYC industry friends. We have all worked (or still work) together since I have been in this city, and all share the same passion for eclectic cuisine as much as we do for limitless libations. Needless to say, you will most likely see these faces intermittently along the way. Jennie Werts, Lukas Southard (pictured top right), both my Sous Chefs, and Alexander Selig (my former, and still the current GM at Ouest).

    They were running a bit late with their seating, so we posted up at the antiquated, high-rise bar to taste through the cocktail list. Of the five we tried, there were two that really made an impression. The other three were either too sweet, too alcohol-y, or just generally very unbalanced. However, the vodka-thyme lemonade had something to say about my critique by providing a very balanced citrus kick and a subtle earthiness to it that is seemingly universal when the proper amount of 'thyme' is taken to make a skillfully crafted cocktail, or anything for that matter. Complimenting this was the Ginger Margarita that was appropriately suggested to me by the "plaid clad" gentleman behind the bar (they all wear plaid here, i believe it's to emphasize the haute hipster mantra that comes with the farm-to-table cuisine), that had to have been mixed with some sort of freshly muddled ginger, due to the Agave having quite a spike to it as well as the rim of the glass having a fresh sugar that had a ginger aroma to it as well. Quite refreshing, and a great balance of all of the quintessential flavor points that provide for the perfect balance of flavors. Overall, I would not say that the cocktail list is what is giving this 'carpet dweller' its recognition.

    As the maitre d' relieved us from our post, they led us back to table 21 (don't ask why, but I pay attention to these things) which was positioned perfectly in the middle of the open format floor plan, and just close enough to the kitchen to let your senses get off to the races. With a magnificent vegan display of fresh produce and flowers inserted directly in front of the uber-modern, glass enclosed kitchen, your perception is immediately focused to what the kitchen at ABC has made its name for.

     With the disappointment of the cocktail list still looming, we collectively decided to make the switch to a crisp Alsatian white wine. We were starting to get a bit on the ravenous side, and we all are VERY good eaters, so we decided to throw out all boundaries. A modest selection of 12 items were decided upon, to share between the table and just like that, we were in for what we would later experience to be a two and a half hour culinary experience. Our server was extremely accommodating, to both our needs and our atypical boisterousness, and the service team was extremely attentive throughout the entire length of the meal.

 

Roasted Beets with House Made Yogurt

Among the array of dishes that we were embarking on, the first course stood out as some of the most diverse and creative dishes of the selections. As per a recommendation from Alex, we started with the Roasted Beets and house-made Yogurt. An absolute perfect dichotomy of the Roasted Beets, with their soft, delicate texture and the tang of the freshly cultured yogurt, was rounded of with the subtle anise flavor of chervil and a concasse of cherry tomatoes. Brilliantly simple. Complementing that, was a gift from the kitchen of Roasted Butternut Squash with Toasted Pumpkin Seeds that was dressed with a melange of elegance, including a danish bleu cheese, dried cranberries and finished with something reminiscent of the remedy for a cold winter day.

Artisinal Cheese and Meat Plate

As with any good meal, a Cheese and Meat Plate, and some Chicken liver mousse are necessary contributors to salivary ecstasy. Artisanal Cheeses paired with Prosciutto di Parma, Pork Lardo, spiced carrots, whole grain mustard, and a shimmering golden honey, were vying for the title until a house made seven grain toast, cut three quarters of an inch thick, and magically covered with an earthy chicken liver mousse & fried sage leaves, appeared at the table. This surprise left us with even more of an appetite, if not solely for hunger, definitely for the feeling that the richness of the food, here, is capable of delivering.

Chicken Liver Mousse Toast 

      



As with every organic rose, there's there is always a thorn along the way, and in this case it was the Scallop Crudo with Market Grapes and Lemon Verbena. The dish was visually stunning, however, nothing really kept it together. The citrus was overbearingly tangy and there was some sort of heat that was a predominant spur in the overall balance of the dish as well. The grapes and the toasted pistachios were kind of just 'placed' there, as if there was no real reason besides the fact that they sounded good.


     The next couple dishes rebounded very nicely, with the inclusion of such things as, Kasha and Bowtie Pasta with Veal Meatballs, Roasted Suckling Pig with Plum and Bacon Marmalade, Fried Chicken a la "Award Winning" with Swiss Chard and Hot Sauce Butter (which I will be going bak for, to enjoy an early dinner in Union Square by myself one afternoon), A pizza that was liberally covered with Mushrooms and Oregano, Parmesan Cheese and a Farm egg that was perfectly gooey right in the middle. The highlight of the later courses to me however, was another Pizza that we enjoyed, which again was complements of the kitchen that turned out to be one of the most unique, flavor driven pizzas I have ever had. It was a pizza of Shaved Radiccio,  Sweet Italian Sausage, Toasted Walnuts, and it seemed like it was finished with a sprinkle of Brown Sugar, but that may just be my mind conjuring ways that could make a pizza that delicious.

          The meal at this point had put all of us in a food coma, and there was nothing left to do, except take a round of shots and fall off our chairs in laughter...literally. The night, in all, was perfect. The service staff was super accommodating without being overbearing, the cocktails proved to be a shadow to which the food, the company as well as the ambiance of this basement lying restaurant provided the light at the end of this culinary tunnel.  Thank you to all involved in making this night, and I will see you all again I'm sure, through my Taste of New York. Stay tuned, up next...Prune!