Prune

       Fifteen deep at Fifteen 'til. Thats what you can expect the line to be at this LES brunch hotspot on any of the crisp weekend mornings you decide to venture out for some of the best brunch this city has to offer. Doors open at 10am, and if you want any shot at all, i suggest you be there before then. I was fourth in line, braving the cool winter winds that were stirring up this January morning. My other half was running late, and I knew this wouldn't fair well when they opened the doors, as I was figuring that they wouldn't seat incomplete parties, no matter how cold it was and how much I pleaded. So, when it came time for me to enter, to no avail, I was wait-listed. Boo.

Jake Russo

Jake Russo, my now infamous other half, arrived 5 minutes after 10, and we waited for the next available table. By this time the sun was beaming and the day was looking brighter already, but we were getting hungry. The turn time was extremely fast for the wait and the hype of this place, i would think people would want to savor it a little more, but we were seated in about 40 minutes, right in the middle of the small 36-seat restaurant and despite a fleeting audience, we were in for the long haul. For a cold winter day, the tightness of the floor plan and the seating, was actually comforting. The ambiance was that  of a warm country style eatery, only this eatery was serving an eclectic selection of savory breakfast dishes, and featuring a musical selection of Fugees: The Score.

Stewed Chickpeas with
Crispy Poached Eggs

Sausage and Oysters 

    Being that we were inhibited from enjoying anything from the cocktail list because of New York's "Blue Laws", we started with two cups of their fantastic coffee, and didn't waste any time with our multi coursed breakfast voyage. The first course was something of a match made from an online dating site. Two extremely different dishes, that came together beautifully with out any formal introduction. The Sausage and Oysters were simply just that. 3 Malpeque Oysters, glistening in a sauce while still nestled in their half shell and paired with a house-made lamb sausage that had just the right amount of smokiness to it, to compliment, but not overshadow the clean, refreshing salinity provided by its bivalve counterpart. Also on the plate was a ramekin of stewed tomato concasse, that lent a brilliant sweetness to the dish and provided a bath to soak the aptly named peasant bread in. Vying for attention in the opposite corner was the bowl of Stewed Chickpeas with two Crispy Poached Eggs and Kalamata Olives. This too, was served with a tomato puree that accentuated the sweetness of the dish and beautifully highlighted the Kalamata Olives and brininess that is unique to only the olives themselves. The chick peas were lightly stewed and while still had a bite to them, seemingly melted in your mouth. The dish was accompanied with a pressed Kalamata bread that personally I could've done without, but all in all the first course left nothing unanswered, and left me salivating for what was to come.

Steak and Eggs

"Medium-Rare"

      When what to my wondering eyes should appear... but a 7oz strip steak and and an ice cold glass of...water. Blue laws, still in effect. But the second course was still on its' way, and this one brought to us all of the flavors of meats, liver and fish that one (or two in this case) could want to start their day off with a smile. The Steak and Eggs was a plate of perfectly cooked, sunnyside up eggs, with toasted english muffin, half of a potato galette, and a 7oz Prime Center Cut Strip Steak with Parsley and Shallot Compound Butter. It was intimidatingly large and perfectly cooked. It is a very welcomed surprise when this cut of meat is cooked as nicely as this one was without the aid of a double broiler that would be found in a steakhouse setting. Perfectly cooked, and rested to perfection gave this steak a melt-in-your-mouth tenderness that felt like a filet, with the taste of a strip steak. Bravo. And what better to compliment a large piece of steak at breakfast, than liverwurst and Danish Fish pastes. I agree, Nothing. This English Hostel Breakfast, was a plate of House made liverwurst, chorizo sausage, a selection of Danish Breads, and a tin of Fish pastes to round the palate. The richness of the plate was a bit overwhelming, however, the components were technically sound and presented beautifully.

English Hostel Breakfast

     All in all, Prune was a great brunch destination. Not much room on the floor, but its compact quaintness, delivers a warm feeling and a tightly knit, sort of "familial" experience in the end. The service was very attentive, and accommodating to all of our needs. Whereas, they are not seemingly going for any kind of four-star designation, they definitely achieve what they are attempting to be, and will remain on my list of top spots in NYC. The food selection is very aggressive, and while that is completely up my alley, it may not be for some. Where there are some lighter options, all of the food that I saw passing by throughout the meal, seemed very large, and filling. So, get there early, go there hungry, and get ready for a very warm and welcoming portion of New York's elite (#72).

ABC...

...It's easy as 1,2,3!

With very little notice and a few strings pulled, we managed to get into this 'Best New Restaurant of 2011' (#16 on the 'top 101') hot spot with a four top at 8:00. I figured this would be a good way to start this adventure off right, with the haute-locavore cuisine that this extension of the Jean-Georges empire has to offer. My company for the maiden voyage, consisted of my core group of NYC industry friends. We have all worked (or still work) together since I have been in this city, and all share the same passion for eclectic cuisine as much as we do for limitless libations. Needless to say, you will most likely see these faces intermittently along the way. Jennie Werts, Lukas Southard (pictured top right), both my Sous Chefs, and Alexander Selig (my former, and still the current GM at Ouest).

    They were running a bit late with their seating, so we posted up at the antiquated, high-rise bar to taste through the cocktail list. Of the five we tried, there were two that really made an impression. The other three were either too sweet, too alcohol-y, or just generally very unbalanced. However, the vodka-thyme lemonade had something to say about my critique by providing a very balanced citrus kick and a subtle earthiness to it that is seemingly universal when the proper amount of 'thyme' is taken to make a skillfully crafted cocktail, or anything for that matter. Complimenting this was the Ginger Margarita that was appropriately suggested to me by the "plaid clad" gentleman behind the bar (they all wear plaid here, i believe it's to emphasize the haute hipster mantra that comes with the farm-to-table cuisine), that had to have been mixed with some sort of freshly muddled ginger, due to the Agave having quite a spike to it as well as the rim of the glass having a fresh sugar that had a ginger aroma to it as well. Quite refreshing, and a great balance of all of the quintessential flavor points that provide for the perfect balance of flavors. Overall, I would not say that the cocktail list is what is giving this 'carpet dweller' its recognition.

    As the maitre d' relieved us from our post, they led us back to table 21 (don't ask why, but I pay attention to these things) which was positioned perfectly in the middle of the open format floor plan, and just close enough to the kitchen to let your senses get off to the races. With a magnificent vegan display of fresh produce and flowers inserted directly in front of the uber-modern, glass enclosed kitchen, your perception is immediately focused to what the kitchen at ABC has made its name for.

     With the disappointment of the cocktail list still looming, we collectively decided to make the switch to a crisp Alsatian white wine. We were starting to get a bit on the ravenous side, and we all are VERY good eaters, so we decided to throw out all boundaries. A modest selection of 12 items were decided upon, to share between the table and just like that, we were in for what we would later experience to be a two and a half hour culinary experience. Our server was extremely accommodating, to both our needs and our atypical boisterousness, and the service team was extremely attentive throughout the entire length of the meal.

 

Roasted Beets with House Made Yogurt

Among the array of dishes that we were embarking on, the first course stood out as some of the most diverse and creative dishes of the selections. As per a recommendation from Alex, we started with the Roasted Beets and house-made Yogurt. An absolute perfect dichotomy of the Roasted Beets, with their soft, delicate texture and the tang of the freshly cultured yogurt, was rounded of with the subtle anise flavor of chervil and a concasse of cherry tomatoes. Brilliantly simple. Complementing that, was a gift from the kitchen of Roasted Butternut Squash with Toasted Pumpkin Seeds that was dressed with a melange of elegance, including a danish bleu cheese, dried cranberries and finished with something reminiscent of the remedy for a cold winter day.

Artisinal Cheese and Meat Plate

As with any good meal, a Cheese and Meat Plate, and some Chicken liver mousse are necessary contributors to salivary ecstasy. Artisanal Cheeses paired with Prosciutto di Parma, Pork Lardo, spiced carrots, whole grain mustard, and a shimmering golden honey, were vying for the title until a house made seven grain toast, cut three quarters of an inch thick, and magically covered with an earthy chicken liver mousse & fried sage leaves, appeared at the table. This surprise left us with even more of an appetite, if not solely for hunger, definitely for the feeling that the richness of the food, here, is capable of delivering.

Chicken Liver Mousse Toast 

      



As with every organic rose, there's there is always a thorn along the way, and in this case it was the Scallop Crudo with Market Grapes and Lemon Verbena. The dish was visually stunning, however, nothing really kept it together. The citrus was overbearingly tangy and there was some sort of heat that was a predominant spur in the overall balance of the dish as well. The grapes and the toasted pistachios were kind of just 'placed' there, as if there was no real reason besides the fact that they sounded good.


     The next couple dishes rebounded very nicely, with the inclusion of such things as, Kasha and Bowtie Pasta with Veal Meatballs, Roasted Suckling Pig with Plum and Bacon Marmalade, Fried Chicken a la "Award Winning" with Swiss Chard and Hot Sauce Butter (which I will be going bak for, to enjoy an early dinner in Union Square by myself one afternoon), A pizza that was liberally covered with Mushrooms and Oregano, Parmesan Cheese and a Farm egg that was perfectly gooey right in the middle. The highlight of the later courses to me however, was another Pizza that we enjoyed, which again was complements of the kitchen that turned out to be one of the most unique, flavor driven pizzas I have ever had. It was a pizza of Shaved Radiccio,  Sweet Italian Sausage, Toasted Walnuts, and it seemed like it was finished with a sprinkle of Brown Sugar, but that may just be my mind conjuring ways that could make a pizza that delicious.

          The meal at this point had put all of us in a food coma, and there was nothing left to do, except take a round of shots and fall off our chairs in laughter...literally. The night, in all, was perfect. The service staff was super accommodating without being overbearing, the cocktails proved to be a shadow to which the food, the company as well as the ambiance of this basement lying restaurant provided the light at the end of this culinary tunnel.  Thank you to all involved in making this night, and I will see you all again I'm sure, through my Taste of New York. Stay tuned, up next...Prune!

Intro: Binging and Splurging

Dining Out. It's a time to indulge in many of life's grand pleasures; enjoying company, encasing yourself in an atmosphere that takes you away from whatever stresses and influences life may have for you at the moment, and most of the time, savoring the talents and creations that a select few people spend their lives dreaming of and, in some instances, actually creating, through the culinary arts. This is MY journey through the recently named top 101 restaurants, in arguably the epicenter of the world within this certain craft...New York City. New York Magazine's Adam Platt has put before us, a list of the restaurants that he considers to reign as the city's best, and over the next 52 weeks I plan on dining my way through the entire list.

Through my glorious journey in the following weeks, I will be documenting all of my experiences, here, on this very blog. I will document everything from the food, the service, the value of the meal, the decor of the restaurants interior, and yes, of course, my company. Ha! This is more than anything, simply a way for me to track and document my experiences, as well as share my experiences with my friends, peers, and anyone else that would like to follow, from a first hand, chefs perspective of what the city has to offer.

As I begin to take the first step (...tonight I am dining at ABC Kitchen) there are a few things you must know. I have already eaten at 20 of the 101 restaurants on the list, and if I do make it to those, it will be after the other 91 I must appreciate to round out the list in its entirety. The restaurants that I have been to I will list below, and hopefully I can capture all of the past experiences in what we will dub as "Retro Posts", which will be recounted intermittently throughout the year as to completely capture every restaurant on the list. The "Retro Posts" will cover the following:

(2) Le Bernardin                                       (65) Kin Shop
(14) Minetta Tavern                                  (68) Fatty 'Cue
(21) Gotham Bar and Grill                       (69) The Dutch
(23) Aquavit                                              (70) The Standard Grill
(27) A Voce-Columbus                              (73) Momofuko Ssam Bar
(35) Aldea                                                 (83) Telepan
(38) Momofuko Noodle Bar                      (92) Otto Inoteca and Pizzeria
(40) Eataly                                                (93) Empellon
(44) Locanda Verde                                  (96) Dell 'Anima
(62) Veritas                                               (101) Fette Sau


There is no rhyme or reason to my method of eating through the remainder of the list, as I am assuming that many of some of the top restaurants are going to be somewhat difficult to get into (namely Momofuko Ko, Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, and Torrisi Italian Specialties), and some are extremely expensive (Per Se, Eleven Madison Park, and Masa...what am I thinking, they're all quite expensive), however, I am determined to finish the list, and must I say, I am extremely hungry!!! So, without further ado...Bon Appetite!